Slip it in the gap and twist the screwdriver. There is a tiny gap for flat blade screwdriver. If you did not already do so, remove the Nose Cone Bolts. I scratch the nose cone in line with the mounting bracket of the pump just to make it easier when reinstalling it. This will prevent the rear seal of the impeller from touching the ground and getting damaged. Take the Nozzle you removed earlier and set the pump on it. Manipulate it a bit and you can get it out. It will slide off the drive shaft and basically be sitting there. I did leave them in place as I didn’t want to screw with them. It comes out a bit tight, especially if you leave the lower brackets where you removed the 4-hex head bolts.
#Seadoo vts shorts free#
The pump is basically free to be removed. The 2nd one is hidden right behind the first one. It will be easier to pull the pump if the hose is off. Loosen the Cooling Hose Clamp and remove the hose if you can, if not, you can as you pull the pump. I have seen some be PLENTY tight and it is easier to torque on them while the pump is still bolted to the ski. If you are going to pull the pump, loosen the nose cone bolts while they are right in front of you and easy to get to. To remove the Nose Cone, us a 5 mm Hex Head. This allowed me to lube the rear spline and check things out. I pulled my pump as I wanted to get it in my hand so I could check out the bearing and wear ring as well as the drive shaft spline. You can simply remove the Nose Cone right where it is as the 4-tec uses grease, not oil. You do not need to remove the pump if you do not want to. Pop the Nozzle off and you can now see the Cone that contains the Sea Doo Synthetic Grease. They are not on to tight, break them free with pliers then slide them off. I left the hoses attached as I felt they would be easier to remove once the nozzle was free. VTS Bolts and Sleeves, Sleeves MUST be pulled out or you cannot remove the VTS Bracket.Ĭut the Bailer Tube Zip-Ties, one per side. Take a look at them as best you can as this may help when installing the VTS Bracket. You will see the plastic glides (round white objects) that the bracket rides on.
to remove the VTS Bracket takes a bit of near perfect wiggling to get it out. The Nozzle will pivot left and right out of the way as you previously removed the steering bolt. VTS Pivot Bracket, remove one bolt and one sleeve per side (13mm). Remove the Steering Nut and Bolt, (10mm). Once the bolts and sleeves are removed, the bucket will be free. But you will get more swing on your wrench or ratchet from under the Bucket. You can see the Bucket Bolts while looking over the top of the Bucket. Now the Bucket can be flipped up and down a bit. Once the bolts are removed, slide the sleeves out of the joint and flop the arms out of the way. To do so, remove the Arm Bolts, one on each side. That said, my used O-Rings were in perfect condition and would have used them if I didn’t have new O-Rings. There are two O-Rings in the pump housing where the Nose Cone sits. I used Ratchet Wrenches on most of these nuts and bolts as there was not enough room for a ratchet and socket in some cases. Be sure to put them back into the correct holes.
They are the same diameter but are different lengths. You will find there are two sets of Pivot Sleeves. Removing the IBR bucket is not difficult.